Freelancers can be fashion's ultimate last-minute heroes. (And, if they're not careful, they can also end up as the proverbial unsold cow that's being milked for free.) Here, an exploration of the pros and cons of life in the increasingly crowded fashion freelance fast lane...

Some dirty laundry, like dandruff and acutely bizarre relatives, is best kept in the hamper. In the apparel industry, that dirty laundry can be the use of freelancers, a practice that is often mentioned in hushed tones. Fashion freelancers can be lifesavers - and many wind up as permanent, fill-time, in-house staff. Some, such as Giorgio Armani and Agnes B., have gone from freelancing to the heights of success. But in the highly competitive fashion industry, the hiring of freelance talent also can have negative implications: It can be a clear signal that a business is experiencing glitches, unexpected developments or crises.

The need for freelance help can range from an urgent one in which somebody quits in the middle of a project to other, less panic-stricken contexts. "If you're only needing someone to do a few items a year, or work a day or two a week, [our service] enables a company to be very flexible in its staffing. You just bring people in when you need them," says Anne Maxfield, president of Project Solvers, a 13-year-old fashion placement company. However, she adds, "We joke that the busiest time of the week is between 4:30 and 6 on Friday afternoon. That's when the crisis calls come in." Emergencies aside, Maxfield says there are a greater need for freelancers in these days of downsizing. "A lot of companies are laying people off to make their bottom line look better but then they find they have no room for growth because they can't experiment with new projects or products," she says. "We bring them the people they need to launch a new line or division. And in specific companies, there's more need for full-time people because they still need to get the product out, even in lean times. They're tightening their staff and trying to hire 'smart.'"

Nevertheless, working freelance can be a launchpad to a successful career and an introduction to diverse business contacts. Designer Beth Bowley started out as a freelancer with Project Solvers and grew to launch her own branded, contemporary sportswear line, which now retails at Henri Bendel, Bloomingdale's and Barneys New York, among other stores. "I started working freelance and eventually collected enough clients to hire people and run a design studio, which I did for about seven years," she says. "Finally, I decided that rather than help other people get rich, I wanted to start my own company."

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